Independent watchmaker │ Mr. Masahiro KIKUNO
Born in Fukagawa City, Hokkaido in 1983. After serving in the Japan Ground Self-Defense Force, he went into watch-related work. In 2008, he graduated from the watchmaker course of Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry. After graduation, he enrolled at the same college as a trainee and began to make watches on his own. The “Temporal Hour Watch,” an automatic wari-koma dial Japanese style watch which he had produced in a wristwatch size for the first time in the world, won admiration, and he became an associate member of AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants, more commonly known as the Academy). In 2013, he was recognized as the first full-fledged Japanese member of AHCI. In 2015, he released “WADOKEI-REVISION” and in 2017, he released a Moonphase model “SAKUBO.”
Due to the large number of components and the complexity of the parts, specialization was established early on in the production of watches. In addition, the American production system, in which interchangeable parts are mass-produced by use of machines, was introduced early on in production. Nevertheless, a watch was still an expensive item. However, in more recent years, machines have undergone further development, techniques have been improved, distribution of work has been properly implemented, and as a result, watches of excellent quality at an amazingly low cost are being manufactured and sold.
An independent watchmaker goes against the grain in making watches based on individual effort as if turning against the history of watch production. He or she generates new ideas, draws up his/her own design, makes parts, assembles and makes adjustments and carries out finishing work in the making of a single watch. As a matter of course, a watch made by an independent watchmaker cannot be compared with modern efficient watch production methods in terms of homogeneous quality, delivery times, production volume and cost. Nevertheless, there are always customers who desire such watches made by independent watchmakers even if they have to wait for many years. What is the appeal about such watches?
If the value of a watch is determined only by product and price, independent watchmakers would surely not have survived. Value exists in parts other than the product itself, and the background history gives such product greater appeal.
A big feature of my watchmaking is the manual work involved. Now, most watchmakers manufacture watches by using computer-controlled machines. But it is my preference not to use these machines because I know the pleasure of creating by my own hands what I have envisioned. Also, people even without professional expertise can intuitively understand how to create products by their own hands. Most people have the ability to use their hands in only the same motion over and over. One individual faces the parts of one watch and assembles the parts and completes the watch. As people can understand the process, they can share in the hardships and pleasures with which the watch is created.That is to say, by visualizing the watchmaking process, the process of his or her watch being made becomes a story that will lead to a deeper understanding, empathy and satisfaction.
Today, it is difficult to differentiate between individual products due to development of machine tools. Differentiation will be required in terms of not only the quality and price of products but also the “story” surrounding each product.
Managing Officer of Chronos Japan │ Mr. Masayuki HIROTA
Born in Osaka in 1974.Freelance journalist since 2004 after resigning as a corporate employee.Has been in his current position since 2016.Serialized articles have been published in The Asahi Shimbun Digital &M, “GQ JAPAN,” “Nikkei MOMENTUM” and other publications.Serves as a judge for “Watchstars,” the German watch award.
After Apple Watch was released in 2015, the so-called “smartwatch” rapidly gained a consumer following.
Although the smartwatch market has not yet expanded in the Asian region, it occupies more than 50% of the $300 or less watch category in the current North American market.
On the other hand, each company has been forced to change product composition in order to enhance competitiveness.
A good example is TIMEX. Although the company has not focused on mechanical watches for a long time, it released a $200 mechanical watch “Marlin” in 2017.
SEIKO has also expanded its mechanical watch “PRESAGE” to increase the percentage of low-priced mechanical watches. In addition, Japanese manufacturers have committed to increasing price with highly functional watches with the GPS function added to solar technology.
However, what should be further focused on is greater effort on the part of ambitious Asian manufacturers and watchmakers.
Today, many watch manufacturers including Japanese companies are challenging the luxury watch genre market, the traditional stronghold of Swiss and German manufacturers.
Although “MEMORIGIN” (Hong Kong) once produced inexpensive tourbillon watches, now it has gained global recognition through collaboration with unique characters.
Also dependent upon its future activities, Logan Kuan Rao (China) can become a leader of independent watchmakers in Asia. At the present time, there is no appreciative difference in the quality of watches between watch manufacturers in Switzerland and Germany and them.
The activities of Japanese manufacturers are also interesting.
SEIKO developed GRAND SEIKO to be an independent brand in 2017 and has accelerated an even larger overseas expansion.
What supports these activities are the advanced branding strategy and the so-called “boutique business model” that Swiss watch manufacturers have been good at.
EPSON is trying to develop a North American market by the highly functional but expensive watch “TRUME” and the inexpensive mechanical watches “ORIENT” and “ORIENT STAR.”
In addition, CASIO has developed G-SHOCK into a worldwide brand by skillful marketing.
At present, only G-SHOCK has brand strength comparable to Apple Watch in the $300 or less price range, and CASIO’s marketing strategy will become the norm for each Asian company that promotes branding in the same way.
On the other hand, it is CITIZEN that has demonstrated growth with its acquisition strategy.
Unlike acquisitions by retailers in China and Hong Kong, CITIZEN took an interest in the extensive sales network of FREDERIQUE CONSTANT and affiliated the company.
With the rise of smartwatches, more manufacturers that are forced to shift to the expensive price range will need to be committed to management and expansion of respective sales networks.
A response to smartwatches and the shift to luxury watches are essential factors in order for the Asian watch industry to survive in the future.
In this presentation, I will introduce these matters with concrete case studies.
